Uma das experiências mais inesperadas e especiais de todo o Caminho aconteceu no Albergue de Peregrinos San Nicolas. Uma antiga ermita que há muitos anos recebe para descanso e alimentação aqueles que peregrinam à Santiago.

O local não possui luz elétrica ou telefone, portanto não é possível reservar uma cama para dormir. Não sei explicar de onde vinha a certeza de que conseguiríamos um pouso nesse lugar tão fantástico e cheio de tradições…

Essa igreja lendária, cuidada hoje por um fiel grupo de peregrinos italianos, mantém vivo um rito templário emocionante. São séculos de história que envolvem esse pequeno lugar composto por um altar, uma grande mesa que congrega hospitaleiros e peregrinos, 4 beliches e um frondoso jardim, hoje abastecido por uma estrutura moderna com banheiros e duchas de água quente aquecida à gás – ótima surpresa pra quem já esperava por um banho frio.

Chegamos em San Nicolas cansados da longa caminhada do dia e como estávamos com duas amigas americanas precisaríamos de 4 lugares, algo quase impossível para um lugar com tão poucas camas. Eram mais de 4:30 da tarde, horário em que os albergues já começam a lotar.

Cruzamos os dedos e entramos no pitoresco lugar que parecia um filme. Paolo, um italiano figuraça nos atendeu com um farto abraço. Não falava inglês ou espanhol mas seus gestos amplos traduziram tudo o que precisávamos saber. A conclusão é que só haviam 3 camas disponíveis e nós éramos 4. Me ocorreu perguntar se por acaso ele tinha um colchão extra, afinal não queríamos nos separar e ninguém aguentava mais andar. E não é que um colchão apareceu!! Melhor que isso, não é que foi parar no altar da pequena ermita templária. “Paolo, você está querendo que eu durma no altar?!” – perguntei com ares de blasfêmia. O italiano sorriu: “Bella, é o lugar mais sagrado desse lugar, olha que energia maravilhosa você vai receber!!”. “Por isso mesmo, não é falta de respeito?!” – Argumentei

Conclusão: pra que eu não me sentisse mal o italiano falou com o Danilo e perguntou se ele não se incomodava em dormir no altar também. Em menos de 2 minutos o colchão do Dan estava sendo colocado ao lado do meu!! Mama mia, quanto sacrilégio. Pedi “permissão” ao mais alto para ficar lá e aceitei o presente de mais tarde dormirmos em um lugar tão sagrado!

E nossa experiência em San Nicolas não parou por aí. Antes do delicioso jantar ser servido, nós peregrinos fomos orientados a lavar nossos pés e descalços seguirmos até uma roda de cadeiras colocadas no altar. Três dos hospitaleiros italianos apareceram vestindo um manto templário e iniciaram o rito de lava-pés. Fizeram uma oração muito antiga e passaram com uma ânfora lavando os pés de cada um dos peregrinos para em seguida beijá-los. A emoção foi grande, não segurei minhas lágrimas. O rito relembra a última ceia, simbolizando a humildade e o amor de Jesus, é oferecido a todos aqueles que se hospedam em San Nicolas e continuam sua peregrinação por essa jornada de autoconhecimento.

Seguimos para o jantar onde outra oração antiga foi entoada agradecendo pelo alimento. Quanto ao jantar basta dizer que foi tipicamente italiano, farto e delicioso. Um dos melhores do Caminho.

Agora, imaginem vocês que esse grupo de amigos italianos durante anos se reveza para receber, alimentar, organizar o espaço e beijar os pés de todos que por lá tem a sorte de passar. Fazem isso pela gratidão que sentem pelo Caminho, pela manutenção do amor crístico e pela missão de nos dar forças para completar a jornada. Não ganham nada por isso, trabalham com coração aberto gerando AMOR.

Nunca mais nos esqueceremos e teremos gratidão eterna por esse privilégio!

Ultreya!!!

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